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  3. TRAVEL 2013
  4. JUNE, 2013: NIKKO, JAPAN

NIKKO II

What happens when you hire 4.5 million workers and give them enough gold leaf to cover 6 acres?
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Yomeimon Gate, guarded by archers.
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Yomeimon Gate, guarded by archers.

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  • Sacred water of Toshogu.
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  • Yomeimon Gate (to your right). Notice the long wall extending both directions from the gate. This is also called the "Sunset Gate," because there are supposedly enough carvings and decorations that one will not get tired of beholding this even if he looks at it all day long (until after the sun sets).<br /> <br /> Notice that the wall has carving panels (which we will see more closely in the next photos).
  • Yomeimon Gate, showing the carvings along the wall a bit better.
  • Here you can see the carvings (remember, from the early 1600's) closer.
  • Yomeimon Gate. Yep, I love that golden glow!<br /> <br /> This shrine is not without controversy: Apparently the style is much closer to Chinese than to Japanese, a fact which some of the locals have apparently not appreciated through the ages.
  • Yomeimon Gate, guarded by archers.
  • There are 508 animals (many imaginary or mythical) sculpted into this gate (I believe that is in addition to the people) . These "foo dogs," or komainu, are sculpted in the typical fashion: Notice that one has an open mouth, and the other's mouth is closed. This represents a chant, based on the sounds made by the first and last letters of the Japanese alphabet, but it also is also VERY much like the "Om" meditation of other cultures: The open-mouthed komainu is basically sounding the "O" while the closed-mouthed one is sounding the "M." As in the Hindu "Om" practice, this represents the manifestation of the All, from beginning to end.
  • Can I have one? I promise I'll feed it and take good care of it!
  • Upon passing through the Yomeimon Gate, one arrives at this large courtyard. The building you see here is the actual mausoleum for Tokugawa Ieyasu.
  • I really liked the gate to the Mausoleum (likely more of that 6 acres here). Let's take a closer look.....
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  • Isn't this totally cool?
  • I nearly wet my pants laughing after reading this sign (the one by the light switch). Probably not the effect they were after.
  • Ok! OK! I'll beautifully use it! I promise!
  • Field trip.
  • I think I like the Pagoda better this way (with some of those trees from the 1600's in the way): Adds a little mystery.
  • The steps from the Shrine Area down to Nikko. This is VERY typical of stairs and walkways all over this place: LOTS of water running all the time, and the entire infrastructure is built to accommodate it. Indeed, from any place, I could hear water running: Either the river outside my room, or hidden channels under the sidewalk, or refreshing little streams between "lanes" of walkways.<br /> <br /> I kept thinking I felt really amazingly positive about this place. More so than what I could explain. Then, it finally donned one me: ALWAYS the pleasant and relaxing sound of water. Often in the background, but always there. Always refreshing. Always energetic. Always soothing.
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  • I know, it may look pretty gross, but this was actually quite good. The Nikko area is known for a culinary delight called Yuba. It is basically the skin that forms on the surface as tofu hardens. It is skimmed off and (I think) dried a bit. I'm sure that the flavor depends on what it is prepared with. I hate to use the greatly over-used cliché, but the yuba on this sandwich tasted a lot like chicken.
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